day seven
I woke up in sheets that were nearly wet from the river outside my window. Although breakfast was early, the rest of the day was rather slow: card playing, snacking, reading and some more writing. Life on the cruise ship is a little weird. Rather than traveling at almost every hour of the day, we were confined to either our rooms or the dining room. Although we were technically moving and traveling, the strange almost isolationist aspect of the cruise was slightly unnerving. The view from our balcony only affirms that thought: a small boat sailing through murky water, shrouded by mist covered shores.
Our first excursion was to the town of 石宝寨 (Treasure Rock Village). The town itself existed in an estranged relationship with tourists. On the side of the steps we used to climb onto land, villagers were washing clothes by hand in the river. As tourists glanced at goods in the stands, children and elderly stood watchful, shouting out the few phrases they could speak in English in hopes of any kind of purchase. Therein existed a life that is so completely different from the one a lead today. Instead of going on culture enriching summer trips across the world, these people are enlisted to try and sell enough goods to support themselves.
On the very same island, the government had spent 90 million yuan to create a dam around the Red Pagoda- 90 million yuan that did not go towards helping the people depend a little less heavily on the fickle pockets of tourists. All at once the village is so commercialized and so very much the same. Where tourists walk, shiny signs and modern traffic controlling railings line the streets. Where villagers walk, the areas look much less new, created with water damaged wood and simple designs. The uneasy dichotomy between the two entirely different worlds was so apparent. Although the area was beautiful, I could not help but think that I was contributing to something a little more sinister than just harmless tourism.
Our first excursion was to the town of 石宝寨 (Treasure Rock Village). The town itself existed in an estranged relationship with tourists. On the side of the steps we used to climb onto land, villagers were washing clothes by hand in the river. As tourists glanced at goods in the stands, children and elderly stood watchful, shouting out the few phrases they could speak in English in hopes of any kind of purchase. Therein existed a life that is so completely different from the one a lead today. Instead of going on culture enriching summer trips across the world, these people are enlisted to try and sell enough goods to support themselves.
On the very same island, the government had spent 90 million yuan to create a dam around the Red Pagoda- 90 million yuan that did not go towards helping the people depend a little less heavily on the fickle pockets of tourists. All at once the village is so commercialized and so very much the same. Where tourists walk, shiny signs and modern traffic controlling railings line the streets. Where villagers walk, the areas look much less new, created with water damaged wood and simple designs. The uneasy dichotomy between the two entirely different worlds was so apparent. Although the area was beautiful, I could not help but think that I was contributing to something a little more sinister than just harmless tourism.
day eight
Today was also a rather quiet day. Our only excursion was a boat ride on the Goddess River (神女河).
Although it was not the most physically taxing activity, the sight of the cliffs and mountains caught in veils of mist was simply breathtaking. I had always wanted to see the origins of the Chinese style water color paintings I had seen so much (and attempted to create), and here I finally was. The green of the water was jade like in coloring, and the stones were cracked and textured along the bottom of the cliff.
During the summer, the river is much lower than it is in the winter. This was evident from the tree lines on the cliff. There would be stone for ten feet or so from the top of the water, and suddenly trees would form as if toeing an invisible line. Of course, this tree line was once much lower. Before the Three Gorges Dam was built, many villagers lived on the banks of the river.
Our tour guide, Jiao Jiao, is a native villager from Wushan. Her family was forced to relocate because of the construction of the dam. When asked what her reaction was when the news was first announced, she responded decisively with one word: "哭 (cry)". She went on to talk about how it was very hard to adjust at first, but her family is so happy now. The government compensation was enough to buy her and her family a much better life, despite the hardships they had to go through to get there.
That night, we performed a dance we had learned during the copious amounts of downtime on the boat. Although it was not the most well rehearsed, the audience probably enjoyed seeing a bunch of Americans bumbling around on stage. At the end of the show, a large dance party ensued filled with songs like the Cha Cha Slide and the Macarena. It is difficult to convey just how cheesy but amazing good it all was. That night was a good end to the cruise ship days.
Although it was not the most physically taxing activity, the sight of the cliffs and mountains caught in veils of mist was simply breathtaking. I had always wanted to see the origins of the Chinese style water color paintings I had seen so much (and attempted to create), and here I finally was. The green of the water was jade like in coloring, and the stones were cracked and textured along the bottom of the cliff.
During the summer, the river is much lower than it is in the winter. This was evident from the tree lines on the cliff. There would be stone for ten feet or so from the top of the water, and suddenly trees would form as if toeing an invisible line. Of course, this tree line was once much lower. Before the Three Gorges Dam was built, many villagers lived on the banks of the river.
Our tour guide, Jiao Jiao, is a native villager from Wushan. Her family was forced to relocate because of the construction of the dam. When asked what her reaction was when the news was first announced, she responded decisively with one word: "哭 (cry)". She went on to talk about how it was very hard to adjust at first, but her family is so happy now. The government compensation was enough to buy her and her family a much better life, despite the hardships they had to go through to get there.
That night, we performed a dance we had learned during the copious amounts of downtime on the boat. Although it was not the most well rehearsed, the audience probably enjoyed seeing a bunch of Americans bumbling around on stage. At the end of the show, a large dance party ensued filled with songs like the Cha Cha Slide and the Macarena. It is difficult to convey just how cheesy but amazing good it all was. That night was a good end to the cruise ship days.
day nine
After leaving the boat for good, the group boarded buses that would finally show us the infamous Three Gorges Dam.
According to our tour guide, the entire project cost 35 billion USD, with nearly 40% of that directed towards building new cities and compensation for those that had to be relocated. Although the idea of forcibly relocating people seems to be cruel, the government did not cut any costs in creating new lives for those whose prior ones were to be drowned. The cost of just living seemed to be covered, but how does one put a cost on memories? Traditions? History? Through this system, all of that is worth nothing. But even if compensation was given for the loss of items with sentimental value, the simple truth is that no amount of money can replace decades of culture.
In the town where the dam was built, propaganda was rampant. I saw more posters here than in all of the previous cities combined. One particular poster had an image of the Three Gorges Dam, along with supposed values of a model Chinese citizen. Amongst civility, prosperity and democracy, stood patriotism in the center of it all. The phrase "爱国 (love for the country)" is used over and over again in many contexts: if you 爱国, you will be lucky, become wealthy, have a long life, etc. The propaganda is much less forcible- rather than telling one what exactly to do, it almost incentivizes people with promises.
After leaving the dam, we had a little by of time to explore the city before boarding the flight to Shanghai. The next time I write, I will be in an entirely different place :)
According to our tour guide, the entire project cost 35 billion USD, with nearly 40% of that directed towards building new cities and compensation for those that had to be relocated. Although the idea of forcibly relocating people seems to be cruel, the government did not cut any costs in creating new lives for those whose prior ones were to be drowned. The cost of just living seemed to be covered, but how does one put a cost on memories? Traditions? History? Through this system, all of that is worth nothing. But even if compensation was given for the loss of items with sentimental value, the simple truth is that no amount of money can replace decades of culture.
In the town where the dam was built, propaganda was rampant. I saw more posters here than in all of the previous cities combined. One particular poster had an image of the Three Gorges Dam, along with supposed values of a model Chinese citizen. Amongst civility, prosperity and democracy, stood patriotism in the center of it all. The phrase "爱国 (love for the country)" is used over and over again in many contexts: if you 爱国, you will be lucky, become wealthy, have a long life, etc. The propaganda is much less forcible- rather than telling one what exactly to do, it almost incentivizes people with promises.
After leaving the dam, we had a little by of time to explore the city before boarding the flight to Shanghai. The next time I write, I will be in an entirely different place :)